Quarter Century Plus Interest

A special visitor was the reason to open a few wines a quarter of a century old and older.

Continuing the success had with the German Auslesen from 1983 earlier in the week, we thought it would be very interesting to look at a pair of Spatlesen, served as aperitif wines. We were not disappointed, as going down to Spatlese level might not have augured well. However the 1983 Thanisch Bernkasteler Lay Spatlese was a testament to the staying power of Riesling as a variety. For a Mosel, this was absolutely fully mature and displayed the power and depth that the Middle Mosel wines of Bernkastel can possess. Honey, toast and kero on nose and palate with pronounced acidity that bordered on hardness, but thankfully not to detraction. Great wine now, and one can imagine it being a bit ugly-duckling sulphur heavy in youth, but now blossomed into a gorgeous swan. This was followed by a 1983 Felix Muller Scharzhofberger Spatlese, more golden, with those overmature cream custard aromas and 'attack', but a wine that faded to plainness and obscurity on the finish. Remnants of its former glory, and a wine that should have been consumed a decade ago. Felix ain't as good as Egon.

An interlude wine consisted of the brand new 2007 Ata Rangi 'Craighall' Chardonnay, shy at first, but developing in glass to show how serious and good this really is in minutes. The girls and guys at Ata Rangi really know how to make the best of top fruit from a great vineyard in the Martinborough Terrace.

Then on to the mandatory clarets, both Haut-Medoc. 1982 Chateau Cantemerle, soft and rich with earth and fruit cake, the Merlot stronger than the Cabernet, and heavily dosed with brettanomyces. However quite sweet and soft, though drying on the finish. Drink up. The great surprise was the 1982 Chateau La Lagune. Darker in colour, with beautifully refined dark berry fruits and shiny oak showing. Lively and refined, and a beauty. However, over dinner (another excellent Ruth Pretty meat-loaf made by SWMBO), the wine became less distinguished, softer, earthier, and dare I say it, the dreaded brett became manifest. Oh dear, a let down in the end. These wines at 25-26 years are proving to be very interesting indeed.

And to finish the night, a bottle of 2004 Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay, outstandingly serious with mealy stonefruit flavours, great concentration and style, and beautifully fresh acidity. As good as the Ata Rangi Craighall was, this was even better. A wine to show the benefits of bottle-age, but primarily the class that Neudorf has proven to possess. Hats off to Tim & Judy Finn.