The Taste of Age

If we read fine wine magazines, we do so with more than a twinge of jealousy when we hear of these fantastic vertical tastings of clarets (invariably) that cover decades of vintages, including the miracle 1961s, 1945s and from the century before. Wouldn't we give our eye teeth to participate in some of these events? But then again, would we have the experience to be able to appreciate these aged wonders. Often, the circumstances and the running of the vertical tasting provides the much needed background and atmosphere to make these old wines come alive. I sometimes wonder how would we react if given just one of these aged, historical wines in isolation?

Last Thursday, we opened a 1983 Ch. La Fleur Petrus Pomerol and a 1980 Ch. d'Yquem Sauternes, together, or should I say, in isolation, without the support of wines to make a direct and relevant comparison with. I must say, it was hard work trying to come to grips with them. The 1983 Right Bank wine was one-dimensional iron and earth, and quite austere. Lacking fruit sweetness, it had not developed with grace. I thought it might be a typical 1983 that reflected the hot, quick season, and thus had ripeness that faded quickly; a character that seems to indicate quick oxidation, once a bottle is opened. Or so it seemed. Over the next two days, it remained absolutely constant. No deterioration at all. Maybe in a vertical tasting, this 1983 might look awful. Maybe it might look brilliantly fresh? I suppose I could be swayed any and either way!

Likewise, the 1980 Ch. d'Yquem super Sauternes. Gorgeous marmalade, barley sugar, honey and nuts on the nose. Dryish on the palate, but everything Yquem should be. I think. At the time, I wished I had some other Sauternes, such as Rieussec or Lafaurie Peyraguey to give the big one a reference point. And again, some vintages either side to give an indication of the quality of the 1980 vintage (not bad, but not great), and how well it had stood the test of time. I felt a bit lost, and would have been happy to denigrate the sucker if one of the other people drinking it felt it wasn't particularly smart! But again, over the next two days, it looked more and more glorious, though it showed the ill-effects of air and oxidation on an increasingly ullaged bottle.

To appreciate the taste of age is not easy and really is something learned, only from experience it seems. It obviously pays not to make judgements too early!