It is indeed a treat to have The Master visit. His easy, breezy attitude is a joy to see and he knows so much that his experiences are great stories. We pull out the stops to have a good time and it all adds to the occasion. The last two nights have meant going out to dine at our favourite eateries. Firstly to the best in town, a Temple of Gastronomy. On first impression, it looks expensive, but at the end, the quality delivered makes it worth more. Great finesse and feel in the food is the result of the best produce and skilled hands in the kitchen. Then to our local Ethnic Magic. Tasty, decent food, just delivered with friendliness. These two places are Masters at what they do.
Of course the wines had over the two nights have been fun too. In an order of style and place, I list them here: An NV Mumm 'Cordon Rouge' Champagne, soft, full and gentle, maybe bottle-aged, but drinking well on a plateau. Delicate autolysis and subtle complexities came through well. Great on its own. It was given to the cause by The Chairman, so we called him up and toasted him! The Master provided a 2004 Bell Hill Chardonnay from Canterbury. Also approaching a plateau with savoury and secondary nutty, mealy complexities, but still fresh and citrussy. No hurry, and a great match with warm, moist, smoked eel.
Reds at the ends of the spectrum all delighted us. Very restrained and burgundian was a 2008 Villa Maria 'SV -Southern Clays' Marlborough Pinot Noir. Soft red fruits, understated, but building in intensity, showing how seriously structured it was, with breathing. And what a treat to compare the 1982 and 1983 Chx Margaux pair. The 1982 full, rounded, rich and with massive structure. Quite accessible, but this got funkier with brett, bottle age interest and possibly TCA? Not quite pristine, but impressive nevertheless. A typical 1982. The 1983 was darker, more narrowed, tighter, fresher, with lifted dark fruits and scented berry characters. This seemed a little over-firm, but developed finesse and style. Not as rich as the 1982, but sleeker and livelier. Most of the votes went towards the 1982 first, but changed with time! The Dog Men were in town and they passed a glass of 2005 Chateau Rayas Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Wow, perfumes, very fine, subtle raspberries, warmth, and a tannin mouthfeel to die-for.
And a too-young 2006 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese. Softer than the acid-based Mosels we've been used to seeing lately. But just as pristine, and softly rich. A decadence waiting to happen. It must have been immaculately conceived as it was so clean. These 06s aren't the greatest, but in the hand of a Master, they can be pretty damn smart.
It was indeed a couple of days of paying dues to the best. Homage to the Masters.
Monday, June 28, 2010
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Sweetness Rules
We had The Master come to stay with us and there's no better excuse to try some sweet and delicious wines, especially over a good meal.
At the florid eatery, we struck out good with a 2005 Neudorf Moutere Riesling which was beautifully balanced at 11.0% alc and 30 g/L rs. Just starting to show a touch of toastiness along with the lime and minerally elements. Wonderfully restrained with its sweetness too. The Master was impressed. Mind you, it was his call to get it to the table.
We've been drinking some Riojas recently, and it pays to mention all three tried, though it was the latter we had for dinner. The 2006 Beronia Crianza seemed a bit pinched and the 2005 Beronia Reserva not as rich as I thought it should be. But wow, air help transformed them to another level. Richness, weight and sweet fruit and sweet vanilla of American oak. A 2001 Marques de Caceres Gran Reserva had immense concentration, grip and depth. This was still a baby. All of these traditional Riojas are imbued with plenty of acidity - just what you need with food.
Off home and The Master insisted on a 2006 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese in a half bottle. It was all that was needed. A hint of toast and reduction on the nose gave way to the most impeccably balanced palate. Lime marmalade, honey, flowers and minerals, with super zingy acid. But it was sweet and gorgeous.
Sweetness does rule!
At the florid eatery, we struck out good with a 2005 Neudorf Moutere Riesling which was beautifully balanced at 11.0% alc and 30 g/L rs. Just starting to show a touch of toastiness along with the lime and minerally elements. Wonderfully restrained with its sweetness too. The Master was impressed. Mind you, it was his call to get it to the table.
We've been drinking some Riojas recently, and it pays to mention all three tried, though it was the latter we had for dinner. The 2006 Beronia Crianza seemed a bit pinched and the 2005 Beronia Reserva not as rich as I thought it should be. But wow, air help transformed them to another level. Richness, weight and sweet fruit and sweet vanilla of American oak. A 2001 Marques de Caceres Gran Reserva had immense concentration, grip and depth. This was still a baby. All of these traditional Riojas are imbued with plenty of acidity - just what you need with food.
Off home and The Master insisted on a 2006 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese in a half bottle. It was all that was needed. A hint of toast and reduction on the nose gave way to the most impeccably balanced palate. Lime marmalade, honey, flowers and minerals, with super zingy acid. But it was sweet and gorgeous.
Sweetness does rule!
Saturday, June 19, 2010
Siblings
Sibling get togethers are not common nowadays, even though we are in the same city. Busy lives seem to prevent the frequency, but when they occur, it's a lot of fun catching up on the gossip and to talk of old times. We did manage a session last night, at the Amble-Inn eatery, one of our favourites, where food and service was spot-on. It was 'Mags', 'Jude' and myself with our other halves. We all like eating, drinking and talking, telling tales, and it was a busy night. Of course, a few bottles were emptied...
Bubbles is a great way to begin, and the NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Blanc de Blancs was very dry, steely, minerally and almost austere. Perfect to whet the appetite. I do like the vintage version with a little more depth, richness and character, but this did the job. Some good oysters would have set it off. Then onto something richer, a stunning 2007 Spade Oak Gisborne Viognier, rich, weighty, lush, and loads of fruit fat, apricot, zest, and oak too. This went down a treat, so a back-up white was called in, a 2007 Bret Brothers Macon-Uchizy 'Martine', made by two organically focused siblings, stylish, almost refined and understated, but with a subtle build up. It should have come before the Viognier, but then we didn't count on my siblings' sipping power!
The main courses chosen had plenty of fillet beef. So reds were ideal. Two 'sibling' Margaux wines were the chosen ones, both from 1983, a good vintage for the commune, better than the rated 1982 vintage for most commentators. The 1983 Ch. d'Angludet started off sleek and vibrant with perfumes lifting black fruits and bright acidity. As air time took effect, the funky animal brett came out and dominated the proceedings and the tannin grip started to show dryness through the palate. It was a great match to see how the 1983 Ch. du Tertre changed too. Seemingly grubby on opening, this calmed down and began to show varietal Cabernet vitality, within a rather classical framework of tannin structure that allowed fruit sweetness come through. These lesser claret growths can really do the job, and this was one occasion.
We ended up saying our farewells to the wines, the eatery's good people and the siblings. A good night it was.
Bubbles is a great way to begin, and the NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Blanc de Blancs was very dry, steely, minerally and almost austere. Perfect to whet the appetite. I do like the vintage version with a little more depth, richness and character, but this did the job. Some good oysters would have set it off. Then onto something richer, a stunning 2007 Spade Oak Gisborne Viognier, rich, weighty, lush, and loads of fruit fat, apricot, zest, and oak too. This went down a treat, so a back-up white was called in, a 2007 Bret Brothers Macon-Uchizy 'Martine', made by two organically focused siblings, stylish, almost refined and understated, but with a subtle build up. It should have come before the Viognier, but then we didn't count on my siblings' sipping power!
The main courses chosen had plenty of fillet beef. So reds were ideal. Two 'sibling' Margaux wines were the chosen ones, both from 1983, a good vintage for the commune, better than the rated 1982 vintage for most commentators. The 1983 Ch. d'Angludet started off sleek and vibrant with perfumes lifting black fruits and bright acidity. As air time took effect, the funky animal brett came out and dominated the proceedings and the tannin grip started to show dryness through the palate. It was a great match to see how the 1983 Ch. du Tertre changed too. Seemingly grubby on opening, this calmed down and began to show varietal Cabernet vitality, within a rather classical framework of tannin structure that allowed fruit sweetness come through. These lesser claret growths can really do the job, and this was one occasion.
We ended up saying our farewells to the wines, the eatery's good people and the siblings. A good night it was.
Friday, June 18, 2010
Iberian Bliss
After a long gap, it was a pleasure to get together again with the Brit Biker, Tiggs, Teacher Ma'am and Niggle over a mainly Iberian themed evening. The feature was a paella and pair of ports, with a few other wines to bolster up the evening.
On arrival, we were greeted with a 2007 Villa Wolf Gewurztraminer from the Pfalz, an Erni Loosen creation. It spoke of Germany first, with variety second and was a very pleasant and surprising start to the proceedings.
Into the excellent meal prepared by Tiggs, we had a 2008 Baluarte Rueda Verdejo, an excellent refreshingly acidic white that had a bit of a mineral and herb twist. The racy mouthfeel made it a wine to work with any food, 'cos there was good weight and presence. But it was the reds that were eye-opening here. Firstly a 2001 E & E Barossa Sparkling Shiraz, rich with ripe berry and eucalypt-infused fruit with lovely cedary oak, all harmoniously held together in a froth-filled palate. A touch of sweetness (sugar?) just made it delish. Then matching this bubbly in fruit profile was a 2005 Telmo Rodriguez 'M2 de Matallana' Ribera del Duero, with its spicy oak and ripe dark peppery berry flavours and very fine textured tannins. Modern fruit style, and oaky for sure, but with the food, it worked well matching chorizo heat.
The vinous highlight had to be the two Vintage Ports from the legendary 1963 harvest. The same year as Niggle's arrival on this earth! The 1963 Croft was full, broad, still big, almost robust, and softening out with acidity freshness dropping away. But big fruitcake secondary and foresty tertiary notes, good extract, but rounding out and away. Cedar, spice, savoury and earthy, and a great drink now and over the next 5-10 years no problem, but peaking now. The 1963 Dows was one of those unforgettable, magnificent wines that will remain a memory marker and benchmark. Fading colour, ethereal dried roses, and a remarkably fresh, lively palate with racy acidity and tension. Wonderfully fresh florals, and distinctly sweet, and the spirit standing out still. The quality of the spirit was sheer class, and all up, this had another decade or two ahead of it. SWMBO was over the moon.
It was an evening of Iberian bliss for sure, and one that we should try to repeat.....
On arrival, we were greeted with a 2007 Villa Wolf Gewurztraminer from the Pfalz, an Erni Loosen creation. It spoke of Germany first, with variety second and was a very pleasant and surprising start to the proceedings.
Into the excellent meal prepared by Tiggs, we had a 2008 Baluarte Rueda Verdejo, an excellent refreshingly acidic white that had a bit of a mineral and herb twist. The racy mouthfeel made it a wine to work with any food, 'cos there was good weight and presence. But it was the reds that were eye-opening here. Firstly a 2001 E & E Barossa Sparkling Shiraz, rich with ripe berry and eucalypt-infused fruit with lovely cedary oak, all harmoniously held together in a froth-filled palate. A touch of sweetness (sugar?) just made it delish. Then matching this bubbly in fruit profile was a 2005 Telmo Rodriguez 'M2 de Matallana' Ribera del Duero, with its spicy oak and ripe dark peppery berry flavours and very fine textured tannins. Modern fruit style, and oaky for sure, but with the food, it worked well matching chorizo heat.
The vinous highlight had to be the two Vintage Ports from the legendary 1963 harvest. The same year as Niggle's arrival on this earth! The 1963 Croft was full, broad, still big, almost robust, and softening out with acidity freshness dropping away. But big fruitcake secondary and foresty tertiary notes, good extract, but rounding out and away. Cedar, spice, savoury and earthy, and a great drink now and over the next 5-10 years no problem, but peaking now. The 1963 Dows was one of those unforgettable, magnificent wines that will remain a memory marker and benchmark. Fading colour, ethereal dried roses, and a remarkably fresh, lively palate with racy acidity and tension. Wonderfully fresh florals, and distinctly sweet, and the spirit standing out still. The quality of the spirit was sheer class, and all up, this had another decade or two ahead of it. SWMBO was over the moon.
It was an evening of Iberian bliss for sure, and one that we should try to repeat.....
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Spice and Nice
It was a pleasant night out with the Cho-sen Ones and friends, talking on all subjects. It got a bit spicy and risque, as it can do sometimes, adding a bit of life to the conversation. Along with it were a few wines to tie it all together.
Starter was a lovely fresh 2008 Mt Edward Central Otago 'Drumlin' Riesling, attractive medium style at 12% alc, but you wouldn't think it was so high. Florals, minerals, honey and oh-so-delicate spices. Very gentle, and I'd have said 9.5% alc max.
Then with a gorgeous roast beef we tucked into the reds. A brace of multi-gold and multi-trophy winning siblings from the Villa Maria Estates group. The 2007 Villa Maria Reserve HB Syrah was succulent, seamless, Asian spices and smooth, while the 2007 Esk Valley Winemakers Reserve Syrah was full, plump and structured, less spicy, and more black berry fruited. It's a good job they are quite different.....otherwise you'd wonder if they could be the same wine with different labels - if you were a cynic of the Kiwi wine industry.
Then a treat from Timbo Medic Man, a 1993 Grant Burge 'Meshach' Shiraz, one from 100+ y.o. vines from the Barossa Valley floor. Still fresh with tension, but beautifully integrated, super ripe plums and prunes, some spice and liquorice. Wonderfully elegant too. It was no super blockbuster that was tough to drink, but rather a wine that crept up on you. Nice indeed!
We finished with a 2008 Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d'Asti, 5% alc, raisins and grapes, and spicy green tea leaves. Gorgeously soft and delicately frothy. No trouble putting it alongside the Cho-sen's apple crumble, lifted somewhat by the inclusion of feijoas.
Starter was a lovely fresh 2008 Mt Edward Central Otago 'Drumlin' Riesling, attractive medium style at 12% alc, but you wouldn't think it was so high. Florals, minerals, honey and oh-so-delicate spices. Very gentle, and I'd have said 9.5% alc max.
Then with a gorgeous roast beef we tucked into the reds. A brace of multi-gold and multi-trophy winning siblings from the Villa Maria Estates group. The 2007 Villa Maria Reserve HB Syrah was succulent, seamless, Asian spices and smooth, while the 2007 Esk Valley Winemakers Reserve Syrah was full, plump and structured, less spicy, and more black berry fruited. It's a good job they are quite different.....otherwise you'd wonder if they could be the same wine with different labels - if you were a cynic of the Kiwi wine industry.
Then a treat from Timbo Medic Man, a 1993 Grant Burge 'Meshach' Shiraz, one from 100+ y.o. vines from the Barossa Valley floor. Still fresh with tension, but beautifully integrated, super ripe plums and prunes, some spice and liquorice. Wonderfully elegant too. It was no super blockbuster that was tough to drink, but rather a wine that crept up on you. Nice indeed!
We finished with a 2008 Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d'Asti, 5% alc, raisins and grapes, and spicy green tea leaves. Gorgeously soft and delicately frothy. No trouble putting it alongside the Cho-sen's apple crumble, lifted somewhat by the inclusion of feijoas.
Friday, May 21, 2010
A Refreshing Change
With The Lady Chairman in town, it was an occasion to splash out. After a whole lot of wines tasted over the course of the early evening, it was time to relax with some wines to drink and enjoy. Off we went to a good eatery with the Tiddler in tow, and it was a nice group indeed.
The start of the proceedings was a bottle of NV Taittinger Champagne Brut Reserve. Gosh, what a soft, refreshing pick-me-up. The dosage seemed higher than a lot of the bubbles we've had lately, and its gentleness was a refreshing change. Well done SWMBO. Over the meal we had a 1985 Ch. Mouton-Rothschild. Dark and vigorous in colour, quite stylishly restrained on nose with nice dark berry fruits, the lovely earthy secondaries and only the barest hint of funk. What surprised us all was the thread of racy, fresh acidity running through the length of the palate. The whole thing wasn't a biggie, but more an elegant number, still with depth. In comparison with the 1986s, the 1985s were always softer, more supple and accessible. And certainly more enjoyable. Like tonight. In the morning, a glass left out had a little more animal, but in a nice way. Certainly no drying out of the palate. What a refreshing change to have a real nice older claret. It was well-liked by all of us.
Then at home, we talked into the wee hours over a trio of sweeties. The 2007 Gunderloch Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Spatlese was full, and clumsily Rheinhessen, spoilt by reduction. The Lady Chairman was OK on it, but it went down the slowest. Then a pre-release 2009 Spade Oak Gisborne Late Harvest Viognier. Forward and weighty, this showed too much VA at first, but in the glass it came together. Lotsa caramel flavours. We needed something more special, so out came a 2004 Loosen Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese (not Goldcap). Tight and classy, toasty nuances with hints of cream and custard. Not quite the exotic power that we usually see, so maybe it was in a bit of a hole. But its sheer refreshing Mosel character came through. A refreshing change? Maybe not, as we seem to be doing this regularly.
The start of the proceedings was a bottle of NV Taittinger Champagne Brut Reserve. Gosh, what a soft, refreshing pick-me-up. The dosage seemed higher than a lot of the bubbles we've had lately, and its gentleness was a refreshing change. Well done SWMBO. Over the meal we had a 1985 Ch. Mouton-Rothschild. Dark and vigorous in colour, quite stylishly restrained on nose with nice dark berry fruits, the lovely earthy secondaries and only the barest hint of funk. What surprised us all was the thread of racy, fresh acidity running through the length of the palate. The whole thing wasn't a biggie, but more an elegant number, still with depth. In comparison with the 1986s, the 1985s were always softer, more supple and accessible. And certainly more enjoyable. Like tonight. In the morning, a glass left out had a little more animal, but in a nice way. Certainly no drying out of the palate. What a refreshing change to have a real nice older claret. It was well-liked by all of us.
Then at home, we talked into the wee hours over a trio of sweeties. The 2007 Gunderloch Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Spatlese was full, and clumsily Rheinhessen, spoilt by reduction. The Lady Chairman was OK on it, but it went down the slowest. Then a pre-release 2009 Spade Oak Gisborne Late Harvest Viognier. Forward and weighty, this showed too much VA at first, but in the glass it came together. Lotsa caramel flavours. We needed something more special, so out came a 2004 Loosen Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese (not Goldcap). Tight and classy, toasty nuances with hints of cream and custard. Not quite the exotic power that we usually see, so maybe it was in a bit of a hole. But its sheer refreshing Mosel character came through. A refreshing change? Maybe not, as we seem to be doing this regularly.
Monday, May 3, 2010
Share the Love
It was about time to open a few big names, and what better occasion than the arrival of a couple of wine-lovin' guests. After a look at a number of Iberian numbers, which were no slouches, we headed on out to the Cafe Gal's for a quick bite to eat. There were six of us in the end, including SWMBO and myself: The Chairman, Young Mad Turk, AC Electric Man and The Russian.
We started off with a 2007 Bruno Giascosa Roero Arneis, clean, crispish and surprisingly light, almost insubstantial, but positive. Then on to the heavyweights straight away. 1983 Ch. Lafite-Rothschild and 1983 Ch. Latour. The classic comparison at the top level. Both were pleasingly dark colored, indicating no hurry. The Lafite started hard, lean austere and tannic, the Latour sweeter, rounded and more complete. But with air time, as Lafite does, a perfume and ethereal quality, with fruit filling in the gaps. Really this was still quite unresolved. SWMBO and The Chairman were fans of this. The Young Mad Turk and myself fans of the Latour. We all agreed that 1983 came in the shadow of 1982 and was underestimated. We need to check this out more... It was fun to share these treats.
Then a young treat in the same class as the Bordeaux first-growths. A 2004 Ornellaia 'Masseto', 100% Merlot and outstanding with it. A dose of VA at first, and all over the place. As it breathed, the depth, richness and class came very evident. This weas my wine of the night, as probably was for the Young Mad Turk. Mind you, it was his bottle... He shared the love with this one.
And to follow at the Cafe Gal's place was a 2007 Gunderloch Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Auslese 2006. Light golden hued, with a smoky wild yeast nose mixing it with the pure fruit. Not promising to me. But boy, did it deliver decadence on the palate. Breadth with weight, almost Rheinpfalz in style. Yellow fruits, exotic fruits, botrytis too. But enough acidity to make it work. The Russian loved it with his exotic fruit pudding.
We headed home for another couple of bottles. The 1996 Penfolds Bin 707 Cab Sauv was dull, flat and lacking fruit. The Chairman said probably oxidised. We agreed with the Chairman, as we should all do. So a 2001 Ch. Suduiraut finished off the night. Magical how these '01s are so classical and maturing up now. It has lost its VA annoyance. Oily Semillon and lots of bot with good alcohol body. Starting to soften a tad, but in no way broad. What a lovely wine to share!
We started off with a 2007 Bruno Giascosa Roero Arneis, clean, crispish and surprisingly light, almost insubstantial, but positive. Then on to the heavyweights straight away. 1983 Ch. Lafite-Rothschild and 1983 Ch. Latour. The classic comparison at the top level. Both were pleasingly dark colored, indicating no hurry. The Lafite started hard, lean austere and tannic, the Latour sweeter, rounded and more complete. But with air time, as Lafite does, a perfume and ethereal quality, with fruit filling in the gaps. Really this was still quite unresolved. SWMBO and The Chairman were fans of this. The Young Mad Turk and myself fans of the Latour. We all agreed that 1983 came in the shadow of 1982 and was underestimated. We need to check this out more... It was fun to share these treats.
Then a young treat in the same class as the Bordeaux first-growths. A 2004 Ornellaia 'Masseto', 100% Merlot and outstanding with it. A dose of VA at first, and all over the place. As it breathed, the depth, richness and class came very evident. This weas my wine of the night, as probably was for the Young Mad Turk. Mind you, it was his bottle... He shared the love with this one.
And to follow at the Cafe Gal's place was a 2007 Gunderloch Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Auslese 2006. Light golden hued, with a smoky wild yeast nose mixing it with the pure fruit. Not promising to me. But boy, did it deliver decadence on the palate. Breadth with weight, almost Rheinpfalz in style. Yellow fruits, exotic fruits, botrytis too. But enough acidity to make it work. The Russian loved it with his exotic fruit pudding.
We headed home for another couple of bottles. The 1996 Penfolds Bin 707 Cab Sauv was dull, flat and lacking fruit. The Chairman said probably oxidised. We agreed with the Chairman, as we should all do. So a 2001 Ch. Suduiraut finished off the night. Magical how these '01s are so classical and maturing up now. It has lost its VA annoyance. Oily Semillon and lots of bot with good alcohol body. Starting to soften a tad, but in no way broad. What a lovely wine to share!
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